Grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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Forhorse
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by Forhorse » 27/05/18, 23:43

Guibnd wrote:I have seen varieties of apple cider in graft purses, in particular that of Saint Cyr la Rosiere 61 at the ecomuseum of the perch at the priory of Sainte Gauburge ...


I am very close to St Cyr but I have never been to this graft scholarship. On the other hand there is in the corner "the association of apple crunchers" (if I am not mistaken on the name) which helped me to identify some varieties of my orchard and which I believe offers courses. I would have to find out more seriously, but I am sorely lacking the time to devote to my orchard (last year I didn't even make cider)
But I'm going to have to put myself in it anyway before all the trees are dead ... especially since I learned recently that my orchard was classified ... I don't know what that implies in terms of legal obligation or to what I expose myself if it disappears, but I don't really want to learn it once it is too late. And replanting an orchard of recent varieties does not interest me.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 23:53

Forhorse wrote:
Guibnd wrote:I have seen varieties of apple cider in graft purses, in particular that of Saint Cyr la Rosiere 61 at the ecomuseum of the perch at the priory of Sainte Gauburge ...


I am very close to St Cyr but I have never been to this graft scholarship. On the other hand there is in the corner "the association of apple crunchers" (if I am not mistaken on the name) which helped me to identify some varieties of my orchard and which I believe offers courses. I would have to find out more seriously, but I am sorely lacking the time to devote to my orchard (last year I didn't even make cider)
But I'm going to have to put myself in it anyway before all the trees are dead ... especially since I learned recently that my orchard was classified ... I don't know what that implies in terms of legal obligation or to what I expose myself if it disappears, but I don't really want to learn it once it is too late. And replanting an orchard of recent varieties does not interest me.

is your land classified as a natura 2000 zone or is your orchard listed as a specific orchard?

the Saint Cyr la rosière graft market is organized by apple eaters.
I did the 2h training a year as part of this graft grant, theoretical part and after the practice, it was nice and friendly
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by izentrop » 28/05/18, 09:52

Hello,
I do not know how to do a transplant, no rootstock either, air layering works well enough for an apple tree.
I have an old apple tree that lost its main branches during storms, very vigorous because new branches have sprouted up. It is magnificent and gives a lot of small, tangy, green, late, juicy apples, very good conservation. I still eat it from my cellar.
I had found that the variety was very close to hard colare, seen on an article on the net that I do not find today.

From 5 layering attempts, the largest branch survives (5 cm in diameter at the base), third year I believe.
IMG_20180528_093115.jpg
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Forhorse » 28/05/18, 21:17

My orchard is classified as an orchard to be protected under article L151-19 of the Town Planning Code, I don't know more!

@ izentrop: Could you detail your aerial layering method. I had thought about it to preserve the varieties of my orchard but some research that I have done is not a great idea for that (I did not quite understand why) on the other hand it would seem that to multiply doors - grafts it can be a possible method so it interests me.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 28/05/18, 21:41

@ Guibnd: as regards the dimensions, my memories are rather vague, but it is not too critical: 1,5 to 3 cm in diameter ...
To understand the technique, here is a photo of the tool I made.
IMG0060A.jpg
IMG0060A.jpg (262.4 KB) Viewed times 3463

Well, it's stupid, but the grass is the clearest! : Oops: However, this is sufficient to see the details: a piece of wood with parallel edges, two pieces of packing tape, two nails serving as pins, two packing clips to clamp the other end of the strip, two old ones "pop" rivet points cut to length and each inserted in its groove and glued with araldite and two cutter blades (the only new element!). The piece of wood is rounded on its back to fit the hand. With this instrument, it is easy to pick up two pieces that are exactly identical in height; the second on the rootstock only serves to spare the place of the graft; thus, the sap channels coincide perfectly. The graft is adjusted in width so that there is a clearance of about 2 mm on one side (the other side must be well joined): this allows the formation of scar bulges without risk of causing a detachment of the room.
The trick when collecting the graft consists of this: after incision up / down with the double graft and incision of two vertical with an ordinary graft (well sharpened and clean), the bark is carefully peeled off around the eye ; once this operation is finished, place your curved index finger behind the stem to take support and place your thumb in front of the bud (on the side), then apply pressure towards the other side: this causes the slide the whole graft with the shearing of the small point which has formed on the cambium (under the bark and in contact with it) and which feeds the bud. Without this last precaution, the eye will no longer be in contact with the cambium and will inexorably dry out. Immediately immerse the harvested grafts in a bucket filled with water.
Questions?
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 28/05/18, 22:00

Air layering covers two different formulas. First, layering in a vine, on mother plants, which is rather a professional technique (and which is not so aerial as that, since it is practiced at ground level).
Then, the layering of an isolated branch, whatever the height where it is practiced; this is what I will detail.
To promote the emission of roots on a stem, it is necessary to practice several wounds by multiple incisions or even a partial or complete girdling, according to the difficulty of the plant to react positively. The application of a mixture of "hormone" of cuttings and fungicide is a plus (in practice, you can sprinkle a small rectangle of packaging foam previously moistened and fix it around the incised part with a small tie or a staple). Around this first "dressing", form a ball of wet sphagnum moss, then enclose this ball in a polyethylene plastic envelope formed of a rectangle wound all around the stem with a good covering. This plastic sheet will be held in place by two "Ligaplast" links on each side of the ball. It only remains to wait for the fall.

Regarding the multiplication of all conceivable varieties, whether by sowing, grafting or cuttings / layering, the "bible" remains "The good gardener", which it is perhaps possible to find in the library (because very expensive ...).
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by izentrop » 28/05/18, 22:24

Forhorse wrote:@ izentrop: Could you detail your aerial layering method. I had thought about it to preserve the varieties of my orchard but some research that I have done is not a great idea for that (I did not quite understand why) on the other hand it would seem that to multiply doors - grafts it can be a possible method so it interests me.
He gives the reasons here for the choice of a rootstock https://fermesdavenir.org/fermes-daveni ... rte-greffe.
I think my old tree has all these qualities and I had nothing to lose.
I followed these tips https://www.greffer.net/?p=663

I did not get as many roots as in the photos and thin like hair.
It is important to choose a branch with a vertical stand. On horizontal layering, roots only form below and too few and too fine to have any chance of recovery.
I also made sure that the sachet was opened in a funnel above so that the rainwater could penetrate.
I have not had to water the year.
Recovery of layering before frost.
The tree in the photo has already given apples last year. I had removed them to strengthen it.
This year, even the old tree is not very supplied with apples.
Other layering died in the second year. maybe the voles that swarm in my garden.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 28/05/18, 22:33

For my part, I used white plastic and I never added water, thanks to sphagnum which has a better capacity of water retention than other substances. The idea of ​​the funnel can be counterproductive, since its action depends on weather variations and too much water could cause the stem to rot.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by izentrop » 28/05/18, 23:22

.. with a hole at the bottom to avoid water retention. : Wink:
I am also fortunate that there have not been long dry spells.
I will have to repeat the operation to ensure the blows, I want this rescue. Is there still time?

Ahmed, layering does allow variety to be preserved, doesn't it?
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 28/05/18, 23:49

Ahmed wrote:@ Guibnd: as regards the dimensions, my memories are rather vague, but it is not too critical: 1,5 to 3 cm in diameter ...
To understand the technique, here is a photo of the tool I made.
IMG0060A.jpg
Well, it's stupid, but the grass is the clearest! : Oops: However, this is sufficient to see the details: a piece of wood with parallel edges, two pieces of packing tape, two nails serving as pins, two packing clips to clamp the other end of the strip, two old ones "pop" rivet points cut to length and each inserted in its groove and glued with araldite and two cutter blades (the only new element!). The piece of wood is rounded on its back to fit the hand. With this instrument, it is easy to pick up two pieces that are exactly identical in height; the second on the rootstock only serves to spare the place of the graft; thus, the sap channels coincide perfectly. The graft is adjusted in width so that there is a clearance of about 2 mm on one side (the other side must be well joined): this allows the formation of scar bulges without risk of causing a detachment of the room.
The trick when collecting the graft consists of this: after incision up / down with the double graft and incision of two vertical with an ordinary graft (well sharpened and clean), the bark is carefully peeled off around the eye ; once this operation is finished, place your curved index finger behind the stem to take support and place your thumb in front of the bud (on the side), then apply pressure towards the other side: this causes the slide the whole graft with the shearing of the small point which has formed on the cambium (under the bark and in contact with it) and which feeds the bud. Without this last precaution, the eye will no longer be in contact with the cambium and will inexorably dry out. Immediately immerse the harvested grafts in a bucket filled with water.
Questions?

Thank you Ahmed, precious information from a technique that I don't know and that interests me a lot!
I will reread and study your indications with a rested head ... there, I go to bed and tomorrow work again, I have several days of intensive work this week and I will be back with you soon, at + ...
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...

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