Creation and maintenance of an orchard

[paysan.bio]

Hello everyone !

Paysanbio you practice that with what species?

in fact, it became a game.

I started with stone fruits because on the farm I had very very old peach trees.
I absolutely wanted to save their taste.
everyone was telling me it wouldn't work.
those I grafted 25 years ago are now dying while those I have layered are in great shape.

I try all kinds of gas to see if it works.
if it does not work, I re-test by painting the wound with water added to the cutting hormone.

if it works i re-test by painting with weeping willow gel.
I get this gel by soaking bits of weeping willow branches in water.
it makes rootlets, the water oxidizes and turns into a gel full of hormones.
it replaces, in some cases, the cutting hormone which is not very organic.

[Did67]

FYI, this also works for decorative plants which sometimes have difficulty in cutting. I have a decorative ficus benjamina with "rolled leaves", for example. Twice the cuttings failed (whereas the ficus benjamina usually cuts very well; I think the leaf curl is a virus and it "complicates" the cuttings - unless it is a horticultural selection that do we protect against wild multiplication in this way?). So I cut a flower pot in half, cut one of the rising branches, put the pot around it, tied it up, put in potting soil and waited for it to take root. It was done in the fall, I cut the rising branch, which branched out ...

[Lolounette]

I don't entirely agree with that:
I agree that rootstocks help in the shape of trees for pruning.
but I also know that we can do without rootstocks and get prunings that greatly promote very good fruiting.
I have a problem with dwarfing rootstocks: they have the annoying tendency to burst trees very quickly.
It makes the business work but I don't like it at all, this planned obsolescence.

In the ideal it is on that plants of free feet will live longer, it is the case of the fruit trees like roses for example: 90% of what we are sold is grafted on multiflora which comdamne them to medium term if we don't cut them before ...


but to come back to the fruit trees, for those who cannot let the trees grow naturally in height and in width because of the PLU as it is my case we must find solutions! Managing the shape and height only by size is probably possible as long as someone who knows and likes to prune stays in control, but that poses concern as soon as there is transmission of the trees: not sure that the following will want or will . So overall the trees may end up under the teeth of a chainsaw at the request of the town hall, we are not more advanced in terms of longevity

[Ahmed]

Paysan.bio, you write:

to bark, I make two transverse cuts of the bark spaced 4-5 cm apart.
I remove all the bark between these two cuts. I scrape the wood a little to remove the outer layer.

In short, you practice an annelation ...
Personally, I did the same, but then I surrounded all this part with a piece of polyurethane foam (previously moistened to make stick the hormonal powder), then I formed a ball of sphagnum of horticulturalists (an almost white foam / very pale green) wet that I wrapped in a plastic sheet ...

The idea of ​​layering is that most plants are capable of cutting, but that the cutting often dies before emitting roots; by leaving it connected to the mother plant, the stem continues to be supplied with raw sap, which leaves the cells all the time to evolve towards their new function ...

[Did67]

I don't make whole rings, but I cut a few "pieces" of bark here and there, with a knife that cuts well ...

[paysan.bio]

Paysan.bio, you write:

to bark, I make two transverse cuts of the bark spaced 4-5 cm apart.
I remove all the bark between these two cuts. I scrape the wood a little to remove the outer layer.

In short, you practice an annelation ...
Personally, I did the same, but then I surrounded all this part with a piece of polyurethane foam (previously moistened to make stick the hormonal powder), then I formed a ball of sphagnum of horticulturalists (an almost white foam / very pale green) wet that I wrapped in a plastic sheet ...

The idea of ​​layering is that most plants are capable of cutting, but that the cutting often dies before emitting roots; by leaving it connected to the mother plant, the stem continues to be supplied with raw sap, which leaves the cells all the time to evolve towards their new function ...

this is where i find the forum interesting.
from a technique we can explain our different practices and make them more pleasant to implement.

[Did67]

then I surrounded all this part with a piece of polyurethane foam (previously moistened to make the hormonal powder stick), then I formed a ball of sphagnum from the horticulturalists (an almost white / very pale green foam) that I wrapped in plastic sheet ...

The idea of ​​layering is that most plants are capable of cutting, but that the cutting often dies before emitting roots; by leaving it connected to the mother plant, the stem continues to be supplied with raw sap, which leaves the cells all the time to evolve towards their new function ...

Concretely, you "bombed"? Or did you use a piece cut out of already expanded and hardened foam ???

Regarding what I was saying (cut a slice of bark), I forgot to specify that in an arch, it is on the low side (towards the ground) ... This is where the natural hormones go "stagnate" (because the cambium is interrupted) and trigger or facilitate rhizogenesis ...

On a more or less vertical stem, in fact, cutting a ring is very probably better ...

[sicetaitsimple]

this is where i find the forum interesting.
from a technique we can explain our different practices and make them more pleasant to implement.

In any case, I learned something, I knew the "classic" layering (the low branch that is partially brought into the ground), but not this air layering. One or two Youtube videos to be sure I understand the principle, and here I am ready to try!

Goods.

[Ahmed]

Did, you ask me:

Concretely, you "bombed"? Or did you use a piece cut out of already expanded and hardened foam ???

Not at all! I previously cut small rectangles of ad hoc dimensions in sheets of flexible foam * (packaging style), I moistened them and placed a little perlimpinpin powder on them (the water is intended to stick the powder to the support). I then surrounded the ringed area and I put an elastic tie (with special horticultural pliers; but you can staple it ...) to hold it in place while the operation is complete. The sphagnum moss was placed with one hand, while the other formed an envelope with a rectangle of plastic sheet (which wrapped around the assembly by winding), which was tied at the top and bottom of the "dressing" by a ligaplast and a manual binder (as for twisting the wires of concrete reinforcements, but in the horticultural version, more "light").

* This thin, elastic and porous foam is easily crossed by the roots.

[Did67]

So, "I'm like a sow who doubts ..."

- polyurethane?
- polystyrene?

It seems to me that the first is "brittle" while the second remains relatively flexible ???

Anyway, are these thin, moderately flexible "plastics" that are used from time to time in packaging?