The efficiency of a valid wood stove at full power

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hic
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The efficiency of a valid wood stove at full power




by hic » 02/11/15, 16:17

The efficiency of a wood stove is only valid at full power

A cooker has a power of 2kw.
To heat a main room, 500w is enough

at 500W, 'there is 4 times less gas to produce the draft in the same volume.
which means that the print is divided by 4,
and yield by 2,
We go from a yield of 70% to 35% at worst and
85% to 43% at best

We consume twice as much wood,
and the half that has not burned properly turns into bistre
- with risk of fire and pollution
and risk of poisoning by gas backflow,
the fire being too weak!

An outrageous and intellectual mess!
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by raymon » 02/11/15, 23:11

yes good question but what to do?
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by chatelot16 » 03/11/15, 00:14

I do not agree ... the output is not necessarily the best at maximum power

at maximum power the smoke comes out very hot and takes a lot of power into the eyelash

at reduced power the smoke has more time to lose its heat and heat the house

the only problem is how to reduce the power?

if we reduce the power by loading less wood, by putting smaller pieces, the combustion efficiency remains good, and may even become better than at full power

if to reduce the power we continue to put big logs by reducing the draft, this is where it gets bad

in my case, that's why I prefer to use wood that has been crushed in a woodchip: it allows efficient regular feeding at low power
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by Obamot » 03/11/15, 08:28

Yes, but I understand what Hic said and we cannot say that he is wrong.

In the tradition, the wood stoves had been designed at a time when there was little talk of thermal insulation or the price of fuel ... We were warming up compared to now ... So from there, and in today's days your way of optimizing the outbreak is going very well too Chatelot.

It is however true that if one wants a "good draft" it is often necessary to heat well and what counts and about which nobody spoke until now, it is the diameter of the chimney, and according to the little that j In fact, such a diameter depending on the length, will require a more or less sustained fire. But we will never have a problem with a nice outbreak.

Then you have to see it in a whole: bioclimatic habitat + type of heating VS type of thermal insulation. Because if we think about the type of habitat that suits well with this type of installation, at the time it was often very thick stone walls. And there if we do an ITE (in good and due form), then the whole being perfectly isolated, a beautiful surge, we will then take advantage of the thermal inertia of the walls which will have stored the heat. With this mode of heating well without restraint poses no problem, the heat will not be lost since it will dissipate in the walls which will restore it then, so we may stop heating at bedtime and the gentle heat will last until 'in the morning...

Otherwise there are the programmable pellet stoves, it seems not so expensive (if someone has info ...)


The losses during the evacuation of the smoke with this heating mode, it is necessary to mark damage! And it is true that the more one heats at high temperature, the more total the combustion: the less one pollutes. There's no mystery here.
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by chatelot16 » 03/11/15, 09:40

at home I completely ignore the problem of draft, it is an electric motor which does it ... the smoke coming out of the hearth passes through a heat recovery unit which cools it too much to count on the draft in the chimney

Another advantage of the insert hearth: it does not contain a large amount of wood in the hearth: in the event of a breakdown, it goes out quickly: a battery power supply is required to continue sucking in the smoke while it goes out.

it's been a bit of a gas plant, but given the enormity of the price of good commercial wood poles, this home-made fireplace is more economical despite the electrical mess

the comparison between natural draft by the heat of the smoke and the mechanical draft was already made in the books on the steam engines of 1900: when we want a natural draft in a chimney, the boiler must let out the fairly hot smoke ... if we put a heat recovery unit we increase the power produced much more than the mechanical fan which replaces the chimney draft consumes

I even copied the smoke extraction system seen in an old babcok and wilcox book: the smoke does not pass through the centrifugal fan: the fan only blows in a venturi which sucks the smoke: thus the fan always remains clean ... and the venturi is simpler than a fan so easier to clean
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by SixK » 03/11/15, 12:25

Personally, I don't have a specific opinion on the performance At bottom or at Mini.
Until now, I was rather of the opinion that it was better to run at full speed.

Last week in my insert I made a relatively slow fire in the morning, during the day I had to pass 4 logs.
The house was kept warm for at least 24 hours.

In fact I think I approached the operation of a low temperature heating (heating little, but long) and the walls have accumulated heat.

The most important thing is to prevent it from smoking, to avoid fouling.

If I had chained the 4 logs with the chimney at the bottom, I think I would have had a rapid rise in temperature, but a relatively rapid descent.

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by SixK » 03/11/15, 12:25

Personally, I don't have a specific opinion on the performance At bottom or at Mini.
Until now, I was rather of the opinion that it was better to run at full speed.

Last week in my insert I made a relatively slow fire in the morning, during the day I had to pass 4 logs.
The house was kept warm for at least 24 hours.

In fact I think I approached the operation of a low temperature heating (heating little, but long) and the walls have accumulated heat.

The most important thing is to prevent it from smoking, to avoid fouling.

If I had chained the 4 logs with the chimney at the bottom, I think I would have had a rapid rise in temperature, but a relatively rapid descent.

SixK
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by hic » 03/11/15, 12:39

raymon wrote:yes good question but what to do?

Hi raymon

1.Decrease the volume of the fireplace,
2. Make sure to direct the incoming air flow





The good performance of a basic wood stove (stove type)
is due to the "forge effect" produced by the draw at full speed.

If we repeat the process at a quarter of the volume,
we will have the same yield or almost.

In a stove, we add a mini fireplace
which will represent 1/4 of the volume with redirection of the air circuit.

If by chance the power of 500w is not enough to cook,
air is blown by a turbine

Which will halve the consumption of wood in mid-season for heating and a bet in winter,
as well as cooking in summer,


and double the burning time!
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by hic » 03/11/15, 12:57

SixK wrote:Personally, I don't have a specific opinion on the performance At bottom or at Mini.
Until now, I was rather of the opinion that it was better to run at full speed.

Last week in my insert I made a relatively slow fire in the morning, during the day I had to pass 4 logs.
The house was kept warm for at least 24 hours.

In fact I think I approached the operation of a low temperature heating (heating little, but long) and the walls have accumulated heat.

The most important thing is to prevent it from smoking, to avoid fouling.

If I had chained the 4 logs with the chimney at the bottom, I think I would have had a rapid rise in temperature, but a relatively rapid descent.

SixK

Hi sixk

efficiency is oxygenation!


You have the forge mode, a simple blower or natural draft at full speed.

ou
air injection with blower or natural draft
1. under fuel
2. in fuel
3. at the end of the flame in the remaining gases, post combustion
Last edited by hic the 03 / 11 / 15, 13: 55, 1 edited once.
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by Superform » 03/11/15, 13:45

I actually plan to reduce the size of the hearth in my stove, by putting refractory bricks at the bottom and on the sides, without blocking the air inlets.

The only thing that prevents me is the size of my logs.
It's 25-30 cm, so if I limit it to 25 it's fine, but the diameter is sometimes a bit big ... and it takes a lot of time to split them up ...
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