Of course the important thing is that it is suitable. With a reflex the rendering would be more like this:
...> and if you had Bosch as a customer ...
"contractual test" and at least 70 lp / mm for a "high-end" offset advertising print (i.e. over 420 dpi which is not necessary for a web page where the standard is 72 dpi => although the image quality is resized will keep its excellent characteristics in a smaller format ...).
For the flash halo hmmm ... I feel that one of these days you will still end up "falling" for "LED" lighting
and following the best practices... here is another good "diversion of use". Either to equip a photo repro bench, without forgetting to combine it with the use of a tripod (although done freehand we possibly discern a motion blur , but especially a lot of "noise" and "dull" colors, especially because of a histogram not enough
"to the right") it would be enough to try to realize quickly enough that it would make a very significant difference ...!
... Or, before changing equipment (for those who would be interested) ...:
How to get the most out of your current digital photo equipment
- use "daylight" lighting as much as possible.
- use the color space of your camera, as wide as possible (AdobeRGB if available)
- always work in raw + jpeg when shooting.
- adjust your "white balance" (BDB) manually "in situ" (and not once you get home, with an image processing program). Because risk of metamerism.
- never use the "auto" BDB (factory compromise between "daylight" and "tungsten" lighting) ... Because "rotten" colors are often guaranteed ...
- without image stabilizer (sensor or optics) always use a tripod for "still life". Especially beyond 6 MPx (because motion blur drift with a radius less than 1 pixel immediately reached ...).
- without stabilizer, do not forget the rule
"safe speed" by multiplying the focal length used by 1,5 x to obtain the correct shutter speed, example: a 200mm "x" 1,5 => 1 / 300th of a second ...
- do not be afraid to slightly overexpose your photo, if the "main scene" is underexposed (which sometimes happens because of specular reflections, backlighting, or any other tricky light situation such as reflection flash) ...
- with a flash, use a diffuser, or change the orientation of your "cobra" by directing it towards the ceiling, if there is one ...
- with a blazing sun, use a sagex panel as a reflector, to uncover the shaded areas in the photo of people (portraits, or even small or medium-sized objects).
Left histogram => underused dynamic range, non-optimized or irregular light => noise rise => frequent color fading => little room for maneuver in post-processing with image post-production software.
Right histogram => Little noise on the other hand in an image according to this example, where the histogram is well positioned, since stuck
"to the right" (because the effect is to raise the BL => low lights ...).
Other advantages of adequate lighting and a well positioned histogram
"to the right" thanks to an adapted exhibition => more faithful colors => reduction of
"dull veil" => better "3D" effect of photos => less risk of a histogram
"comb" in post-production (because less post-production ...).
Photo with perfect histogram, which exploits the entire dynamic range of the sensor (there's no mystery ...)