Cleaning glass fireplace insert

[PITMIX]

What strikes me is that I have dumped corrosive product galore for nothing for years when it was enough to pass a stroke of the fleet.
Finally I noticed it by chance because I had no product after spraying on 1/2 glass.

[Flytox]

...
On ignition, start as "Top down".
2 logs with the space between the logs preferably positioned above the air intake holes.
Small wood, trying to make a tower or a small pile of wood. (twigs of cut and dried shrubs from the garden).

The small pile of wood heats without smoking too much, raises the temperature of the enclosure and causes the larger wood to be taken below.
Once it starts to accelerate, I reload a little bigger wood and go.

The method can be a bit long to set up to form a structure that will burn and heat enough, but there is very little smoke emitted at startup. (therefore very little fouling of the glass and the duct).

For starting "Top Down" supposed to make less smoke and clogging chui skeptical ... On my insert, it only takes "quickly" if the door is open, if there is a minimum of dry kindling .. ..May be less smoke .... outside but not in the house

To start the bousin, there is another method (with very little wood available) and no smoke in the house:

- Sort the charcoal from the ash of the last outbreak.
- Transfer the ash.
- Make a small "pyramidal" pile of charcoal (depending on the quantity recovered).
- Put on it 2 sheets of wiping paper + some fine packaging cardboard (recover food packaging) + small wood when available.
- Place the smallest and dry andirons and logs on top.
- Light the fire just on the edge of the wiping paper facing the air inlet.
- Close the insert door immediately.
- At hair-dryer blow through the air inlet to activate the fire.
- The coals reignite in a few seconds and the fire starts quickly (30 seconds to 1 minute?) smoking very little.
-

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

Flytox, normally if your top down is well done no worries ...

personal to be penard, I open all the air hatch .... air 1st and ash drawer ...

then and above all the way to make the log is essential ...

a good layering of section with quantities equal to each layer but of section 1/2 each time roughly ...

So you arrive app at 3/4 of the height of the fireplace in the end ...

so as not to reload anything, except after 4/5 hour app see an hour when the stove is hot and full of embers, ready to pyrolyze whatever happens ...

But it's upstairs that this thing plays ... personally I make a fire on the fire ...

I finish my log with small kindling, but I put a dumpling with a small pile of pieces of crate on top ...

A log is stored in a crossed layer with 2 to 3 cm roughly between each piece of wood, and each layer is of course crossed with the previous one ...;) ... a fire is pampered if you want it sing fast and well ...

with my girlfriend it's simple since it lights up top down it no longer cleans its window .... it's been 4 months ... it is still transparent ..

another advantage since we burn more gas, we heat the stove faster (which does not mean suddenly to blow up the iron of course ) ....

By cons if your home with the door between open pushes back into the house is that there is a problem ... either the deflector is too low, or lack of draft, or extraction in the house disturbing the draft ... one of the points to be observed on to have the NF standard relating to closed combustion appliances, say that it must not no smoke backflow into the room when opening the door ... or starting ...

In reality mine is also doing it for the moment but I think I have found the solution .... I would complete the post started on this subject;) ...

I have to get my hands on it again but there have been laboratory tests to measure the pollution with and without, it is without appeal .. with, there is a gain at all levels ... and for the casing it's also very good ...


because once the start has been processed, there remains the stop phase, two phases during which the maximum pollution appears ...


see you