Cleaning the stove glass with simple wood

[cortejuan]

Hi,

concerning the abrasion of the ash, its capacity is directly linked to the support receiving the ash: if it is a sponge, a damp cloth, in short a soft support, there is no risk . Because the abrasive grain contained in the ash, meeting the hard surface of the glass will penetrate the soft environment and not scratch the glass.

This is the principle of mirror polishing: we use a very abrasive corundum powder, spread over a felt or velvet. The grain enters the textile considerably reducing the pressure on the glass. The grain thus grazes the surface by removing very small quantities of material, leading to a perfect polish.

If we use the same abrasive powder on a brass support for example, we obtain a superb frosted because the grain penetrates little in the brass and therefore exerts a strong pressure on the glass by scratching it.

I have polished several mirrors in a past life.

cordially

[SixK]

The hot water + sponge seems to work well.
Personally, I filter hot water + ash (it soda if I do not say nonsense), it works quite well too.

SixK

[bidouille23]

Slut,

soda are you sure it's not phosphate ???

Thank you Cortejuan for all your great explanation, thank you it will serve me in another area ...cool

So as Christophe said, if the fire works well, even if during the extinction phase of the fire there was coal, during the nominal or close to nominal operating phase, the window must clean itself. .

As the fair for the fireplace that I have modified the biggest concern is its owner who is my daronne , when I come home sometimes the glass is black opaque ...

But two hours after (maximum) that I made the fire the glass resumes on 3/4 of the surface its transparency.
And I did not put a clean glass system but everything is there for ...
(the clean glass or primary air system for the jotul for example, is only an air supply at the top of the window which descends in front of the window to supply primary air to the brazier at the bottom and a little in afterburner).

Assessment to have a glass always clean it is necessary to burn more than to clean ... and even with a good stove !!!



by making the fire upside down at startup

[SixK]

OK, look at the wiki, Water + ash rather gives a kind of Potash detergent.
That said, in antiquity, soda was obtained by mixing very specific plant ash with water ...

SixK

[bidouille23]

Re,

ha yes as much for me potash not phosphate ...

And the coniferous ash is the best potash producer among others ...
very white ash like cotton;) ...

[SixK]

That said, there must also be phosphate in the ashes ...
According to what is burned, here is what we find, at least, in more or less quantity:
- Silica
- Calcium
- Potash
- Phosphorus
- Magnesia
- Oxides
- Welded

SixK

[SixK]

by digging a little forums, I found an ignition technique to limit the soiling of the glass.
Anything wrong with the glass is always less to clean;)

The technique is called "top down":
We start by placing the biggest logs (not too big preferably) at the bottom, then we mount a small tower with increasingly fine wood by crossing the pieces. (3/4 floors already works quite well).
On the top floor, a small fireplace to accommodate a dumpling (or whatever you want that burns easily) and Ignition!
If all goes well, the fire will spread to the lower floors without making excessive smoke.
The glass will stay clean

Next comes the reloading technique, the embers are brought closer to the glass and the new log is stuck to the bottom ...

Last point, no slow combustion!
It smokes, so clogs the glass and allows the formation of the bistre in the duct with the consequences you know ...

SixK

[bidouille23]

Hi sixt,

it is a little more complicated than that I would say;) .... for the top down nothing to complain by cons for what is ru reloading and printing ....

Regarding recharging, it all depends on the position of the primary air intake, the aim being to activate the embers .... tanto in front of tanto behind the air intake, on mine you bring nothing in front by example, especially nothing in fact;), it is not made for ...

Regarding the mode of combustion, again it all depends.
My theory is rather that as long as you have a balance of ratio of quantity of embers / size of the fireplace respected, you can modify the draft accordingly and therefore use a slow draft without bad combustion ...

Slow draw is also a bad interpretation on my part.

Let me explain, the goal is to have a temperature of at least 580 C to burn wood gases.
To do this, embers are needed, which, when activated, give sufficient energy to "feed" the stove (compensate for losses in the fireplace).
To this must be added the fact that the more you heat the more you increase the draft, therefore the more you modify the amount of air introduced with equal opening of the entrances.

Therefore increasing the embers mass allows to reduce the draft, and reduce the combustion speed ...

However, you shouldn't play this with any stove, the stove must be waterproof

Otherwise danger in case of mishandling, possible overheating of the stove ...

Then it depends on the wood;), right now I'm burning spruce and fir it's amazing the amount of energy produced so well burned .... To do this I have to reduce the primary air compared to hardwood if I want to burn, because by reducing the primary air I reduce the speed of gases and degassing while having a sufficient quantity of combustion air a priori (this I must measure it now with my combustion analyzer that I just had to confirm;)), but visually, and at glass temperature and combustion time levels seem to be consistent.

In short everything is variable depending on the case ...


So I come back to the top down anyway;) ...

When you load your stove, theoretically you shouldn't do it randomly.
On the stove manual it is normally indicated a quantity of wood with very specific sections, it is not for nothing;) .. it is therefore necessary to find the right volume of wood for the optimal functioning of the stove, to put the beginning.
Not enough wood combustion remains "bad" until the stove is hot enough, so this may never happen depending on the outbreak, and can happen very late, in theory well loaded at the start with a working stove. of operation must take 30 to 45 minutes in order to reach its optimal combustion mode (it is necessary to respect the cast iron;) therefore not too fast either in general I am around 25-30 min) ...

So here is all that to say that it is not as simplistic as you might think;) ...

[SixK]

Yes indeed, I remained general enough not to go into details that I do not necessarily master.

In my case, once all the wood is glowing, I reduce the air intake a little.
The day before yesterday, I was surprised to see embers above the insert ... that is to say pieces of glowing bistre trapped in the cast iron plates at the top of the fireplace, before the outlet of the flue fireplace.
I told myself, that considering the slow combustion that I carried out the first 2 or 3 weeks, and that the former owner had probably carried out the sweeping that at the beginning of previous year (I have not yet checked the date of the chimney sweep he communicated to me), I was probably not far from the chimney fire
Suddenly, I lowered the draft to calm the heat of the fireplace.


A technique for dropping the bistre, when the fireplace is at the right speed, I play on the air supply to cool 1 minute or 2, then warm the duct. I usually have a few pieces of bistre to fall ... I do not know if this technique is good, but all that falls is always that less to be able to burn in the duct ...

SixK

[culbuto]

you can also make your clay stone (white or green) which cleans all surfaces. kitchen, hob, bathroom, car chrome etc. These stones are expensive in store while the recipe is simple and inexpensive. Dry stone, wet a sponge, rub on the stone and it is the clay granules which clean without scratching.